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The Chinese fashion is increasingly fashionable

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There are more and more emerging designers that inspire Western brands and parade in Milan and Paris, each interpreting in his own way the tradition


Lately China finds herself increasingly at the center of the fashion world, not only from an economic standpoint, since - albeit declining - in China there is a big market and luxury garments and accessories, but also from the creative point of view: more and more designers are inspired by fashion western China, some brands were purchased in whole or in part by Chinese entrepreneurs - as Italians or Krizia Francesco Scognamiglio - while there are more and more Chinese designers emerging from hold sott ' eye. Last September, many of them marched to the women's fashion week in Milan, and a few months before Vogue Italy had dedicated the number of June 2015 to China, with Chinese models on the cover and services on young designers in Beijing.


The interest in fashion to China was also enshrined in the summer exhibition of the prestigious Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) in New York: China: Through the Looking Glass, the aesthetic influence of China on Western fashion. The exhibition has become the most popular museum dedicated to fashion and the fifth most visited so far, and is remembered for the inauguration, which was presented Rihanna with a long yellow coat designed by Chinese designer Guo Pei haute couture.


In an article in Forbes magazine, Glenda Thomas writes that many new Chinese designers are working a lot to be known, while they are also increasing the enrollment of Chinese students to schools of fashion. This was confirmed by Gemma Williams, who works at the London College of Fashion, one of the most important European fashion schools and who recently published the book Fashion China (Thames & Hudson), which reports the 41 Chinese designers who deems the most promising. To do so he consulted a bit 'of experts in the world of Chinese fashion, including the fashion designer Lucy Liu and supermodel Liu Wen. The initial idea was to only the artists, but the system proved to be much broader and more complex and Williams ended up also enter the designers are already established.


As in the West, even the Chinese designers deal with ready to wear, clothes for every day, and high fashion, that is, the evening dresses. But it was difficult for Williams to find uniformity in the style of different designers, because the Cultural Revolution launched by Mao Zedong in 1966 - with the aim to strengthen and impose the vision of the Communist Party in all aspects of Chinese life - has deleted many traditional and cultural aspects of the country, including the history of costume. Mao has for example introduced the zhongshan, a jacket-divided with four pockets and the collar that everyone had to wear the same. Only reforms that have been made since the eighties onwards enabled the birth of the fashion industry and then the emergence of designers, each with their own personal interpretation of the traditional Chinese style.


Wang Yiyang, designer clothing brand casual Zuczug, for example, has designed a collection called "Nothing" and inspired by the twelve signs of the Chinese horoscope. Yiyang is also a business and its brand is working well, especially among the young, as he wrote a few years ago the Wall Street Journal. The designer Laurence Xu realizes high fashion clothes and often combines the colors red and green as - he says - in the tradition of Chinese custom. Xu is highly valued by the press and was one of the first Chinese high-fashion designers invited to the fashion shows of haute couture (high fashion) in Paris. In July 2015 he marched in Milan on the occasion of Expo with tissue products in Nanjing. Also in Milan he presented his collections Uma Wang, who has a more casual style and contemporary, while in Paris parades usually Masha Ma. Both stand for clothes sustainable, environmentally friendly and attentive to the working conditions of employees. Many young Chinese designers have been trained in the West: The Ryan, for example, studied in London and is known for the clothes very eccentric, often knit, he has learned to do by watching tutorials on Youtube. The designer Christine Lau graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, and then founded the brand Chictopia, which in China is very successful among the celebrities.


Williams said it will take between ten and twenty years since the Chinese designers conformable somehow their style and create a sort of national identity. In addition to the historical events, even the vastness of China's territorial - which organizes two different fashion weeks, one in Shanghai and one in Beijing - affects the variety of taste and style.

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